Learn to Knit
In this tutorial, learn to knit a stockinette gauge swatch for any project. Stockinette is when all stitches on the visible side of the fabric are knit stitches.
If you have not read a knitting pattern before, review the How to Read Patterns and Select Projects tutorial.
A gauge swatch allows you to ensure your finished project will have the same measurements as the pattern project. They are also a great way to practice knitting, both for beginners and experienced knitters. For example you might need to learn a new technique, such as mosaic colorwork for a sweater and would like to practice slipped stitches and tension on the swatch before you begin on your sweater. You may also want to create a swatch to understand how two yarns held together will look as a finished piece.
Generally, a gauge swatch is calculated by the number of stitches across 4 inches and the number of rows of stitches at 4 inches of length. You should then block the swatch in whatever method you plan to use for your finished project, wet or steam.
The highlight on the image defines a single knit stitch, which can be described as a heart of v-shape.
How to start a project (cast on)
There are many different cast on methods to start a project. The process of getting the first stitches on the needle is called a cast on. The Long Tail and German Twist cast on are two popular methods for garments because they create a stretchy edge. For all garments you should consider a stretchy cast on so that the opening will stretch enough for your hands, head, or feet to fit through.
If this method is too challenging a simpler method is the backwards loop.
Start your gauge swatch
To begin, locate the suggested gauge for the pattern. For this tutorial I will use the Very Varied Vest, an intermediate level project.
On the Ravelry summary page, the Gauge is noted to be 20 stitches and 30 rows for a 4x4 inch swatch.
Cast on an additional six stitches for your gauge swatch. To create a gauge swatch for the Very Varied Vest, cast on 26 stitches. This will allow you to work garter stitch along the edges so that the swatch does not curl. Garter stitch is alternating rows of knit stitch and purl stitch.
When you have only knit stitches on the visible side, the fabric cannot lay flat because the purl stitches on the back side of the fabric are shorter. To avoid this effect designers will edge fabric with garter stitch, ribbing, or even an i-cord edge. However sometimes a designer wants the curled effect, for example a rolled collar.
Create a knit stitch
There are two main methods to create stitches, right hand and left hand. Right hand is often called English style and left hand is often called continental. Both of these methods also have variations, but this tutorial will demonstrate the basics of both.
For both methods, you will first insert your right needle into a previously worked stitch on the left needle. Insert the needle into the front of the stitch so that it points away from you. Wrap your yarn from the back, up and around the front to the top of the needle. The right needle is then pulled back through the previously worked stitch and that previously worked stitch is then dropped from the left needle.
Right hand knitting
The yarn is held in the right hand, you will use your right forefinger and thumb to wrap the yarn around the right needle.
Left hand knitting
The yarn is held in the left hand, you will use your fingers to wrap yarn around the right needle.
Everyone has different levels of dexterity, pick whichever method works for you. Also feel free to make small modifications to any method as long as you aren’t straining your wrists. The goal is to have a firm stitch, that can still easily move on the needle, and does not cause your hands, elbows, or shoulders to hurt from the repetitive motion. No one method is superior and you can still learn to be a very quick knitter with either method.
Knit three rows
After casting on, use whichever method you are comfortable and knit three rows for your swatch. These rows do not count for your 4 inches of length, their purpose is to keep the fabric from curling.
With the completion of each row, turn your work around. Switch your needles in your hands so that your stitches are back in your left hand. The yarn should be back at the tip of the needle, attached to the first stitch on the needle.
The edge stitches can feel loose and need a little more attention when you first get started. Most importantly, you should take care not to drop a stitch off the needles. Count your stitches often, if you have fewer stitches you will want to seek assistance on how to pick up a dropped stitch or start the swatch over. There is no shame in starting over.
Most experienced knitters will start projects over to ensure that they meet pattern specifications or if there are obvious mistakes.
Stitch types
In this guide you’ve already encountered two types of stitch patterns, stockinette and garter. Stockinette is when all the stitches on the right side, visible when worn, are knit stitches. When you look at the wrong side, inside of the garment, they are all purl stitches.
Purl stitches are the reverse of knit stitches. Most often they are described as “bumps”. When you intentionally alternate rows of knit and purl stitches, you have garter stitch.
To create a purl stitch, move your working yarn to the front of your project and insert your needle into the back of the stitch. The tip needle will point towards you. Wrap the yarn around the top of the needle from front to back before pulling it through.
With garter stitch, even when a fabric has a wrong and right side, both sides will be identical. Garter stitch is when each row alternates between knit stitches and purl stitches. This is why many designers say that items, such as scarves, are reversible when they are all garter stitch.
Knit the swatch
The swatch in this guide is stockinette and is knit flat. You will need to purl every other row so that the front of the fabric is all knit stitches.
To keep the edges of your swatch from curling, you will need to create a garter stitch border.
Row 1(WS): knit 3 stitches, purl until 3 stitches remain on the left needle, knit 3 stitchesRow 2(RS): knit all stitchesRepeat row 1 and 2 until you have the number of rows required for your swatch.
For the Very Varied Vest, knit 30 rows total. You will complete the row 1, row 2 repeat 15 times.
To finish the knit portion of the swatch, knit 3 more rows. This will match how you started the swatch.
How to finish a project (cast off)
To get your project of the needles, you will need to cast off. The cast off process ensures that the live stitches on the needle will not come undone. This process is also called binding off. Like casting on, there are many methods for casting off.
I’ve found that Jenny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off (JSSBO) looks similar to the German twist cast on and is very stretchy. However, for your swatch a simple bind off works well. JSSBO is great for the finishing edge of garments that need to stretch; such as collars and cuffs.
Blocking
Now that your swatch is off the needles, you can block it. The main benefit of blocking is that it will help even out stitches and depending on your yarn, it may also grow significantly. It is especially important for color, cable, and lace work. For all three, blocking will open up the stitches allowing the pattern to be more visible.
There are two methods for blocking, wet and steam. Block you swatch with the method you plan to block your finished project. Alternatively, you can skip the blocking process altogether if you want.
To wet block, you fully submerge and soak your project for 5-15 minutes. Most yarns will include care instructions, such as water temperature, on the label. Optionally, you can include a wool wash to the water before you add your project.
The benefit of wet blocking is that the yarn is fully saturated, making it easier to manipulate. This might be necessary if you really need to stretch the project to meet measurements. However, it can take several days for the project to dry completely and is less gentle.
To steam block apply steam to the project either when it’s laid flat or hanging. You can use the steam function on an iron if you do not have a steamer. Just ensure that you don’t unintentionally iron your project. For whichever tool you use, be sure that the yarn is fully moistened. The steam block process is more gentle and the project will dry much quicker.
After both methods, you will lay the project flat to dry. Optionally, you can use pins to hold the project in place to meet specific dimensions.
Conclusion
If you don’t know what project to start, below are a couple of suggestions.
The Summer Secret Crop tank is a wonderful beginner friendly pattern. The German Twist cast on method is great for this project and the majority of the stitch work are knits and purls. It includes two types of decreases that are commonly used, Knit Two Together (k2tog) and Slip Slip Knit (SSK).
The Desert Dweller cowl is a great first stranded colorwork project. All stitches are knit or purl. You will learn how to manage floats with this pattern.